Vienna

St. Stephen's Cathedral

Funeral Vault of Imperial Family

The actual city of Vienna is comparatively small and encircled by walls and high ramparts, but the whole city is completely surrounded by suburbs some 34 in number all very regularly built, of great extent and containing some fine buildings. These suburbs are separated from the city by very broad boulevard or open space some quarter of a mile or less from the gates – making the whole more healthful, & more beautiful and at the same time making the delightful promenade. On leaving Vienna the view is most delightful – particularly in a fine moonlit night as we had. The Cathedral of Saint Stephen's is remarkably fine old Gothic building of great antiquity and having the finest tower I think I ever saw./^{465 ft} none of the other churches have anything particularly remarkable about them with the exception of one the church of the [80] Capuchins containing the tombs of the Royal family and among them the heart of the Duke of Reichstadt being a simple coffin only, with the inscription in Latin of "the son of Napoleon Emperor of Gallia." His grandfather's tomb is immediately next with. One other church contains a very fine monument by Canova to the memory of an Austrian Archduchess. Tis somewhat singular that Canova's own monument at Venice is very similar to this one here, being a pyramid of marble representing a two and a procession of figures going up the steps toward the open door of the sarcophagus – allegorical of course_____

More stuff in the Treasury

More treasures from the Green Vault

The coronation robes and jewels of the Electors of Saxony as Kings of Poland and many other curious things together with immense quantities of gold plate and many splendid pieces of carving in old times in [75] various materials, with some most beautiful bronzes. In find the most curious rich collection perhaps in the World. Our next visit was to the armory. This also very complete & superior to most others. I saw there the boots & saddles which Napoleon wore in the battle of Dresden – and the white satin shoes embroidered with gold worn at his Coronation. Many suits of armor by diff [erent] heroes of diff^t  battles and a very fine collection of arms and suits of armor together with a Turkish tent and all the concomitants: bows, arrows, sabers &c. &c. – –In the armory we were also shown the sword of Martin Luther and a very handsome drinking cup presented to him by the Elector of his day.----------


We also took a stroll into the Museum of Antiquities which however was miserably deficient in interest to any one, who like ourselves, had seen so many superior. [76]

The River Elster at Leipzig

On entering the city we crossed the great battlefield, where nearly four hundred thousand men met in [64] combat, and Napoleon received one of his first great defeats.  The house at which we stopped to have our passports arranged still bears, in the many bullets and balls in its walls, evidence of the proximity of the scene of battle.  We passed over the bridge in entering the city which by being prematurely destroyed caused the capture and death of so many of Napoleons followers.  There is a small footbridge leading near to the Elster, over which ‘tis said that Napoleon was obliged to cross, first changing his now well known cap for that of one of his soldiers.  

The King's youthful soldiers

Sunday 18 Berlin visited the grand station this morning where were assembled some 300 officers as is usual on Sundays—all splendid looking men. [61]  A band of musicians were playing, for an hour or so, in real German style of military music.  There is almost as much military show here as in Russia.  Every officer must have beenin the ranks as a common soldier before he can become a commander or any officer.  The present King has mounted guard ‘tis said before his father’s palace.  ‘Tis remarkable how young all the soldiers here appear.  I have seen scarcely one over 21 years—though of course there are some.  The people at present are rather uneasy.  They some short time since asked of the new King to fulfill his father’s promises, which he made when calling on his people to rally against Napoleon, viz, “that he would give them a constitution.”  The present King does not at present seem disposed to fulfil it—and the people do not feel quite satisfied.[62]

Napoleon's Moscow

One Evening at Moscow we took a short drive out on the road by which Napoleon entered the City.  There is an Eminence at a short distance from the City, which [27] would shut out the view of Moscow from one approaching it from the opposite side.  Was this that the great personification of Ambition, of good & bad deeds, after leading his weary soldiers through the snows of Russia, harassed on all sides by the waiting Cossacks, first saw the end of his journey, and how taking up a handful of the Earth, turned to his followers and cheered them wit the words which in his mouth seemed almost equivalent to Victory “Voici la terre de Moscou.”  A few days afterwards and this great army left the place of their destination, a broken band and Napoleon wended his way to Paris, his confidence in his Omnipotence somewhat reduced from the place where he put it---- 

Moscow truly foreign--the city after the fire of 1812

The burning of Moscow

Our driver brought us to the top of an elevated piece of ground when we turned and beheld the city at our feet, the Moskva winding through the city and [26] losing itself on our left in the midst of a pretty country for this part of the world.  I have been so long away from home, and have been so accustomed to visiting new places, and considering them for the time being as my real home, that people and places now remind me of really being as far distant from my native land as I naturally am, but looking at Moscow from this height I was forced to think that I was truly in a foreign land.  All that I had heretofore viewed had been European (so to speak), modern—in fact in some degree like America, but this was new.  I beheld before me that which I had before seen in imagination only, and [illeg.] to myself as Asiatic, Oriental, in the times of the Caliph, in fact as something which belonged to another race of people.  Moscow of course is in a great degree modern as regards its’ buildings, yet when its Churches [26] & Mosques were burned as well as its private residences, in 1812, they have generally been rebuilt after the same models, and though often new in materials, are old in style.  This burning of Moscow has of late caused many words pro & con.  As regards the Great Conqueror who here first felt himself somewhat at least subdued, the Russians themselves universally deny the charge of having fired the City & place the fact upon the Soldiers of Napoleon.  By so doing I must say I think they destroy much of the romance of history attributing the deed to their determination, that if the Emperor entered Moscow that he should do so after its glory had departed.