Handel in Vienna

Spanish Riding School (Spanische Reitschule), Wien

One morning I went to a musical festival at which there were 1100 performers. I counted myself over 300 violins! The Emperor & Royal family were all present and I should say at least 6000 spectators! It surpassed anything I have ever heard. The piece performed was Timotheus, can hardly be called [83] Opera or Oratorio, by Handel.* I shall never forget the sensation I had that morning. I did not think it possible for that number of persons to officiate at once – and everything went off most admirably.

*Actually, Alexander's Feast. This was a performance by the Gesellschaft der Musikfreunde (Society of Friends of Music) at the Spanish Riding School, home of the famed Lippizaner Stallions.

Vienna

St. Stephen's Cathedral

Funeral Vault of Imperial Family

The actual city of Vienna is comparatively small and encircled by walls and high ramparts, but the whole city is completely surrounded by suburbs some 34 in number all very regularly built, of great extent and containing some fine buildings. These suburbs are separated from the city by very broad boulevard or open space some quarter of a mile or less from the gates – making the whole more healthful, & more beautiful and at the same time making the delightful promenade. On leaving Vienna the view is most delightful – particularly in a fine moonlit night as we had. The Cathedral of Saint Stephen's is remarkably fine old Gothic building of great antiquity and having the finest tower I think I ever saw./^{465 ft} none of the other churches have anything particularly remarkable about them with the exception of one the church of the [80] Capuchins containing the tombs of the Royal family and among them the heart of the Duke of Reichstadt being a simple coffin only, with the inscription in Latin of "the son of Napoleon Emperor of Gallia." His grandfather's tomb is immediately next with. One other church contains a very fine monument by Canova to the memory of an Austrian Archduchess. Tis somewhat singular that Canova's own monument at Venice is very similar to this one here, being a pyramid of marble representing a two and a procession of figures going up the steps toward the open door of the sarcophagus – allegorical of course_____

Vienna

Left early on Friday morning for Vienna which city we reached on Saturday Evening 31^st Oct. after a ride of some 36 hours to a country which from its appearance seemed to say that it's inhabitants were well-to-do in the world. Made enquiries respecting the Danube and found it to be impracticable to go by that route to Constantinople, so concluded to remain in Vienna as long as possible so to do, before sailing from Trieste for Greece.

Vienna is said to be one of the gayest cities in Europe and by many preferred to Paris, myself however not among the number. There is very little architectural beauty of the city, and few statues and fountains of merit in the streets – though its galleries &c. are very rich. [79]

Dresden to Prague

Wallenstein Palace

Received letters from home & sent answers to them at Dresden Oct. 26. Left there on the 27. at 11 am for Prague, in company with a carriage full of the most inveterate smokers. Luckily I was able to stand my hand with the best of them or it would have proved rather inconvenient company. Reached Prague early on Thursday morning after a ride of some 18 hours, through some of the finest scenery I have ever seen. This portion of the Saxon Switzerland – our first view of the fine old city of Prague was not as favorable an one as we could've wished on account of the dense fog which hung over the city, but as we descended the mountain, the mist cleared away and we saw it in all its glory. It is most admirably situated part of it being built directly on the sides of mountains and the buildings rising up one above another like the seats of an amphitheater. [78] spent the day in walking around the city and environs and ascending to the site of the Palace of Wallenstein. On the whole, it is one of the finest cities in Germany particularly as regards situation & surrounding scenery.

Dresden - Opera and Catholic Church

Dresden Hoftheatre, 1841

The opera is considered one of the first in Germany and I never at home or in England saw finer actors in the comedy than those I saw here the other evening. – – Visited Sunday the Catholic Church to hear the music, but the Orchestre of the opera, was not so much pleased as I anticipated, though 'twas very fine, and is considered the finest church music in Germany. Saw there the King & Royal family.

Am now only waiting for letters from home previous to going to Prague & Vienna. Expect them certainly tomorrow, they should have arrived before 25^th Oct. [77]

Meeting Tieck

Ludwig Tieck

The young ladies before referred to, had been at a lecture given by the Poet Tieck, one of the translators of Shakespeare into German. He was very intimate with them, and on that evening introduced into his lecture, one or two pieces from Göethe, applicable to the occasion of Miss K's being there for the last time before her marriage.

More stuff in the Treasury

More treasures from the Green Vault

The coronation robes and jewels of the Electors of Saxony as Kings of Poland and many other curious things together with immense quantities of gold plate and many splendid pieces of carving in old times in [75] various materials, with some most beautiful bronzes. In find the most curious rich collection perhaps in the World. Our next visit was to the armory. This also very complete & superior to most others. I saw there the boots & saddles which Napoleon wore in the battle of Dresden – and the white satin shoes embroidered with gold worn at his Coronation. Many suits of armor by diff [erent] heroes of diff^t  battles and a very fine collection of arms and suits of armor together with a Turkish tent and all the concomitants: bows, arrows, sabers &c. &c. – –In the armory we were also shown the sword of Martin Luther and a very handsome drinking cup presented to him by the Elector of his day.----------


We also took a stroll into the Museum of Antiquities which however was miserably deficient in interest to any one, who like ourselves, had seen so many superior. [76]