A stormy afternoon

Gulf of Corinth

Patmos contains few remains of antiquities, and is interesting now principally on a/c of the stand it took in the late revolution. Now however we found the first beautiful specimens of Greek Costume--some of them particularly the Albanian, in the handsomest dress I have ever seen. The Greeks universally wear the Fez or cap peculiar to the country, being always made of scarlet with a very rich blue silk tassel.  The men at Patmos particularly are [91] remarkably fine looking, tall, and having an air almost of nobility about them.  We had few opportunities, of judging of the ladies of the island.  They confine themselves to being kept almost as much secluded as the Turkish.  The traveling in Greece is performed mainly riding on horseback, the roads being impassable for vehicles to pass over. Taking each  one [horse] and two for the guide & baggages, and various provisions cooking utensils & bedding with us, we started and after a delightful ride of some 8 hours along the gulf of Lepanto reached Vostizza [now Aigio], a small village on the Gulf. Our ride of the day, had little of interest in it excepting such as arose from the fine scenery and passing the spot where was fought the great battle between the Turks & Christians (that of Lepanto). Our dinner or lunch was taken in a Khan, being a building for man [92] and horse, bringing them pretty close together. We found a single room at Vostizza, or rather what should have been a room, for twas only half-finished or [illeg.], containing an a apology for one stool. Cooking our supper in another part of the home, a good appetite taking the place of good cooking. We slept on mattresses on the floor, and all three turned in together. Were early in the saddle in the morning and started again for the convent of Magaspelion--the ride being for some distance by the side of the Gulf showing Mt Parnassus on the opposite side--and then turning off to the right amongst the mountains. We continued mounting over various ascents over bare sheep-paths, until about 3 P.M. when we were about some two hours from the Convent (and it was necessary to reach it before sunset in order to gain admittance) it commenced raining severely [93] and we had some doubts about being able to go forward. However we pushed on, and continued mounting upwards toward the Convent during the most severe storm that it was ever my fortune to be caught in. There was no recourse left, but to keep on moving. Our horses at times, almost blinded by the remarkably vivid flashes of lightening would stand still for some seconds as if afraid to move. The road was in many places nothing more than the gullies which had been formed by the many rains, and through which the torrents now came rushing down with great force, at times nearly reaching to our horses' tails and making it appear almost impracticable for them to succeed in reaching the top. Our McIntoshes protected the upper part of our forearms from the effect of the Storm, but every other  portion of our clothing was wet through completely.[94] On the whole it was the most fanciful scene I have ever been compelled to add part to.

Ancona, Corfu, and Patmos

Ancona by William Clarkson Stanfield

Temple of Artemis, Corfu

[89] November 16, 1840. Left "Trieste" on the evening of this Day in the Austrian Steamer "Kolorant" for Athens. We had most delightful weather upon the Adriatic, and after about 15 hours sail we arrived at Ancona, the Eastern port in the Papal Dominions, and though larger and rather superior in some respects to the Western (Civita Vecchia) still in many respects it greatly resembles it, viz, in being scarcely worth seeing, filthy, and containing nothing of interest. Remained there until Evening and sailed for Corfu, where we arrived after 48 hours passage. This island is being newly defended by the English as Ancona is by his Holiness. The island itself is on a/c [account] of its situation & scenery a very pretty spot, but its town & port are filthy as the towns of Italy. though nominally English it is in the character of the people a mixture of a Greek Maltese & Italian, and I suppose is considered by the English as valuable solely on account of its situation. [90] It is most strongly fortified and in case of war would be a most essential point. Leaving Corfu in the evening we again started for Patmos, the first Greek town, which we have seen. We reached it in some 18 hours from Corfu, passing by the hills of Albania, the site of Missolonghi, and by numerous islands forming most delightful scenery. It had been our intention to have continued on in the same steamer to Athens, but on arriving at Patmos we concluded to leave it and proceed on our own.