Dinglinger's Masterpiece

Johann Melchior Dinglinger (1664-1731),
The Birthday of the Grand Mogul Aurangzeb

The curious part of the collection consisted of many pieces of work by a German artist one Dinglinger, which in execution surpassed any thing I ever dreamed of. For instance one piece was a view of the throne and attendance of the Great Mogul. There are more than 100 figures in the scene all of gold enameled, and each having a distinct expression, Slaves Ambassadors with presents and all things attendant on such an occasion admirably portrayed. Caricatures of people living at the time things were made our admirably executed in precious stones, brilliant pearls &c.

The "Green Vaults"

My next visit was to the Treasury, or as they are here called “the Green Vaults,” containing immense riches, and so arranged that the succeeding room should be richer than the preceding.  The diamonds in one or two of the rooms surpassed in size any thing I ever saw.  There were several setts of Buttons, collars bracelets, &c. Enormous. A collar of brilliant stile worn on State occasions by the Queen I may safely say was composed of stones each large as a small hickory nut. 

 

The Dresden Green Diamond in the hat clasp ornament

Art in Dresden

Our ride from Leipzig on the Rail Road was of about four hours, to Dresden, the capital of Saxony and considered beautiful, principally [72] from its environs.  It is very pleasantly situated on the Elbe, which [is] nice somewhat farther to the South—but initially, it has little or no beauty at all, the Palace perhaps the largest in Extent in Europe, and its other publick buildings, being not handsome, not to say remarkably plain.  It is however much visited by Strangers, on a/c of its galleries &c. and per the fact of the German spoken here more purely than in any other city.  Miserable weather still, which has followed us all the way from Russia. 

I think I recognize these guys...

Saint Mary Magdalen
by Pompeo Batoni
(destroyed during WWII)

Found Williams and  [Astor?] here both studying German.  Visited firstly the Gallery of Pictures considered on the whole the finest out of Italy, and really in viewing it I could almost imagine myself again in Rome or Florence.  The pictures here the most celebrated, and really magnificent, are Raphael’s “Madonna del Sisto” and Correggio’s Recumbent Magdalene.  (I never attempt describing a picture [73] from inability but there are some that I can never forget).  There was another Magdalene hanging near to Correggio’s which I must say pleased me nearly if not quite as much as his—by Pompejo Geronimeo [Girolamo] Battone [Batoni].). There were several fine Titian’s, & Spagnolettos, and the Dutch and Flemish school very well represented.  In one of the first rooms was a small painting of Hagar going into the desert, most beautiful—by whom I know not, as soft as a miniature and one other that particularly pleased me, of Eve presenting the apple to Adam.

A visit out of the general routine

Near the close of the evening the other sisters returned with the intended groom, Count Somebody, from whom [71]I obtained much information regarding our trip to Turkey and Greece he having traveled much in both countries.  Finding we could now leave consistently we made our bows, and left them to one of their last family meetings.  I notice this visit as being peculiar to the upper classes here, who are universally most hospitable to strangers, and as showing the perfect education of the ladies.  In fact almost every where out of Italy, French is universally spoken as every one is considered, strangers and others, as necessarily acquainted with that—and moreover ‘tis about the only occurrence that has happened to us of interest for a long time out of the general routine of traveling & sightseeing-------

An inapropos visit

New Market Square in Dresdenfrom the Jüdenhof - Bernardo Bellotto

After ascertaining that we were Americans, ands intended remaining some days in Dresden, they gave us their address, with a reiterated request to call upon them before we left.  So last evening we called to pay our respects, and I must say that I never spent an evening in any family that seemed more happy among themselves.  Before going there we ascertained that they were the wife and daughter of the first lawyer in Dresden.  On our entry we found the Father & Mother both occupied in a room through which we passed, with a Lawyer and the old lady after introducing us to [70] two or three of her daughters excused her own and her husband’s absence by saying that they were engaged with their lawyer in drawing up a contract of marriage for one of the daughters who was to be wedded in two days.  I began to fear our visit might prove a little inapropos, but we were compelled to wait for the appearance of our former acquaintance the daughter, and her sister l’affiancée—who were out, but were shortly to return.  They all spoke English, but as it seems always to be my lot, I seated myself next to one who prayed me to excuse her speaking that language and compelled me for the rest of the evening to converse in French.  I must say this much for them that I never saw five sisters before so thoroughly well educated as they.  

"Addressing an American in his own language"

They were evidently Ladies, and conversed very well.  After some [68] conversation the old lady having heard me speak English, addressed my companion in the same language.  I was in hopes that my correspondante would do the same, but she for a long time preferred the French, and I of course could not turn the language.  However after some time the mother speaking in English gave her an opportunity of addressing the daughter in the same, when to my surprise she spoke it much better than her mother, and I learned from her that all the young ladies here are taught English French and Italian as a part of their Education.  She preferred speaking in French however, as she told me she did not feel exactly at here ease, when conversing with an Englishman or American, but that she could not hesitate generally addressing an American in his own language, as she found them most lenient as regards mistakes being [69] made.  I really consider it as a great compliment paid to my countrymen.  For if there is any thing which is more ungentlemanly than another, it is for a stranger to laugh at another’s mistakes in addressing him in a tongue not his own.  

An interesting train ride

Left at seven o’clock the next morning for Dresden, in a RailRoad Car, which was quite a relief after having so long travelled in Diligences & Schnell Posts.  In entering our car we found that the seats were not numbered as usually and that from this cause we had our backs to the engine, in lieu of our faces or rather one of us, as there were only two other persons in the car.  The fact caused some talk between us and the man at the depot, which caused in the end a very agreeable acquaintance to be formed between [67] the other occupants of the Car and ourselves.  ‘Twas so different from any thing of the kind that could ever occur in England or with us, that I must make a note of it.  The only other occupants of the first class carriages besides ourselves were two ladies, a mother and daughter.  On our entering the young lady who was on a back seat opposite her mother and I immediately with American, not English politeness in such a case, addressed her in French requesting her to keep her seat as it made not the least difference to her.  She however insisted on the fact that she preferred to ride backwards, and thus we both left the seat unoccupied, her mother and my companion (who is made sick by riding otherwise) only remaining upon the seat.  

Dr. Faust's wine bar and a Leipzig Exposition

Entrance to Auerbach's Keller, Leipzig

Passed in our short ramble the cellar in which Göthe lays the scene of Dr. Faust’s pranks—and said also to be the one in which [66] he himself frequently shrank at the carousing of his fellow students.

There being nothing of particular interest in the town to visit we walked into an Exposition, or kind of Mechanic Fair, where we found a small but really very fine collection of the diff[erent] specimens of Saxon manufacture, for all that I could see as good as English or Yankee--.  

Leipzig--Strange Roofs

The weather was so unpleasant where we were in Berlin that we could not make one or two excursions that we should have liked to viz to Potzdam.  We passed through it in the evening on our way to Leipzig, and could gain but a passing view of its many fine palaces and other buildings.  Stopped for breakfast on our journey at Wittenberg, still a fine looking old town, and [65] interesting in being the birth-place of the great reformation, a tree is shown outside the city where Luther publicly burned the Bull of Leo, excommunicating himself from the Holy Church.

The buildings of Leipzig are most singular in their foundation, in height  almost equal to those of the old town of Eroinbró[?] – but their peculiarity consists in the shape of their roofs and thewondoes in them.  The3 roofs are built, running up to a point and often equalin height to the remainder of the building, having generall three or four tiers of windows projecting from it, and now and then a small steeple not on the summit, but coming out of the roof itself—and these stories (upper) are all let out as the other apartments of the houses.

The River Elster at Leipzig

On entering the city we crossed the great battlefield, where nearly four hundred thousand men met in [64] combat, and Napoleon received one of his first great defeats.  The house at which we stopped to have our passports arranged still bears, in the many bullets and balls in its walls, evidence of the proximity of the scene of battle.  We passed over the bridge in entering the city which by being prematurely destroyed caused the capture and death of so many of Napoleons followers.  There is a small footbridge leading near to the Elster, over which ‘tis said that Napoleon was obliged to cross, first changing his now well known cap for that of one of his soldiers.  

Tomb of the Gallant Poniatowski

January Suchodolski, Death of Josef Poniatowski

Monument to Poniatowski, 1834
(destroyed by the Germans, 1939)

After visiting all of any great interest to us who had already visited the galleries and curiosities of Italy, we took our seats in the Schnell Post for Leipzig on Monday evening at 8 o’clock and completed our journey to that city in some twenty hours, arriving as our fortune has now been for some time past, in very indifferent weather.  After dining, we took a valet du place, and walked out to visit the tomb, and scene of the death of the gallant Poniatowski.  The tomb stands in a private garden near to the spot where his bodoy was found.  There is a small (species of) temple in the Garden containing a small monument by Thorwaldsen, and several miniaturies of the noble nephew of Stanislaus of Poland.  The temple has the simple word “Laribus” over the portal.  In another part of the grounds stands a plain, stone sarcophagus, with the name of Poniatowski upon it, wih the Polish Eagles, at each corner, and his own [63] coat of arms.  At some short distance from the tomb we came to that spot where his body was found, the river (Elster) is scarcely broader than a canal, and without taking into consideration his wounded state, and the choked up condition of the river, one would think that a child could scarcely have met his death there.  A stone monument is placed at the outlet of a pathway going through a fine grave in the immediate vicinity, to mark the spot which he passed after having crossed the Pleisse, and left to take the leap which caused his death.  Tis said that the two men who found his body some days after the battle are still living in the city.  Several orders and rings were found upon him, which alone positively certified that the body was that of the gallant Pole.

                                             

The King's youthful soldiers

Sunday 18 Berlin visited the grand station this morning where were assembled some 300 officers as is usual on Sundays—all splendid looking men. [61]  A band of musicians were playing, for an hour or so, in real German style of military music.  There is almost as much military show here as in Russia.  Every officer must have beenin the ranks as a common soldier before he can become a commander or any officer.  The present King has mounted guard ‘tis said before his father’s palace.  ‘Tis remarkable how young all the soldiers here appear.  I have seen scarcely one over 21 years—though of course there are some.  The people at present are rather uneasy.  They some short time since asked of the new King to fulfill his father’s promises, which he made when calling on his people to rally against Napoleon, viz, “that he would give them a constitution.”  The present King does not at present seem disposed to fulfil it—and the people do not feel quite satisfied.[62]

Flashback: Tsarskoye Selo

(I forgot to mention a trip we took to “Sarsko Selo” (English) near St. Petersburgh, where the Emperor has the most magnificent palace I ever saw.  It is immense in size, and  is fitted up in a style that I should never have thought of seeing anywhere out of Paris itself.  I never saw so much taste displayed in any other building.  One of the rooms has its whole sides formed of Amber, which was presented to Russia by Frederick the Great of Prussia.  One can scarcely conceive of its richness.  We saw nothing of the palace but the apartments & Chapel the most gorgeous thing one could imagine, of Ebony & Gold.  Some of the floors were most beautifully inlaid with  [60] pearls and ebony--appearing splendidly rich.

Every thing in the rooms was in accordance with the room itself and though it was imperfect appeared as if made for use as well as beauty.  We made the trip there on a very good railroad, the only one in the country.  After taking a trip through the park and grounds, and visiting the armory, where we saw every thing usual in such places most admirably arranged and very complete, we returned again to the city.  In the armory were two saddles presented by the Sultan to the King of Russia, Holsters[,] pistols, and bridle were all complete and all were actually covered with brilliant stones of very great size, the richest thing of the kind one ever saw.---------|

Continued coronation rejoicings; war and rumors of war

Theodore S. Fay (1807-1898), Secretary
of the Berlin Legation

This is now the fourth day of the rejoicings, and last evening the illuminations in many parts of the city really surpassed the former.  Returning from a call on Mr. Fay the Sec^y of legation here, passed the open houses where there was a grand dinner served for some 1600 persons the King, Princes and [58] Nobility also being present. In passing through the [area] I counted more than 50 Royal Carriages drawn up before the door, taking precedence [over] all of the others. Four most splendid equipages belonging to the Royal Family, with their outriders and postillions were also before the door, which was so surrounded with people that it was almost impossible to pass.  Concluded to leave to-morrow for Potsdam & Leipzig en route to Dresden.

Since our arrival here we have seen the French journals, and one English one, being the first one that we have seen since leaving London, and the news in them of war and rumor of war seem to threaten to put an end to our trip, certainly to Egypt if not to Turkey.  The whole of Europe appear to be getting deeper & deeper into trouble.  Have just noticed that the old King of Holland has abdicated in favor of the Prince of Orange which may cause a revolution in Belgium. [59]  In France, the people continually singing, and causing to be sung in the theaters and other places the Marseillaise Hymn &c and calling loudly for war._____________

The celebration continues; visiting the Queen

The Court and visitors rode through the city during the evening in some hundreds of carriages making the scene appear still gayer.  The horses of the Queen of Holland, Emp of Russia and many smaller sovereigns who have residence in Berlin was most brilliant.  In fact nothing could surpass the brilliancy of the scene.  The evening although rather unpleasant proved more favorable than was anticipated during the day.  After satisfying ourselves with the scene, returned to our rooms which we found lighted also as were all the others in the whole of the city.

Eilzabeth Ludovika of Bavaria
by Joseph Stieler

To-day also the streets were lined with carriages, the same persons calling to pay their [57] respects to the Queen.  It would seem as though the line of carriages must cease soon, but they still came on.  The gentlemen all in uniform or court-dress, and the ladies most gaily dressed as a matter of course.  From our window we saw every one getting out of, or into their carriages.  To-morrow a great Ball is to be given, and the festivities continued for a fortnight--by balls, dinner-parties, &c.  So completed our day with visiting the Museum containing some fine pictures and bronzes.

The coronation of Frederick William IV

It turned out that the morrow was the Kings birth-day, and also the day when he was to receive the homage of his subjects as King of Prussia.  Every public Building that we could see in going into the streets was completely covered with lamps.  In the square in front of the Palace, pursers were arranging places for the different deputations to stand the next day.  A temporary throne with hangings of gold and scarlet was being built in port and attached to the Palace, and preparations on a grand scale were going forward all over the city.  The various public monuments were hung with flags & flowers—the bridges had statues placed upon them made particularly for the occasion (of plaster of course), and the tops of the houses in the vicinity of the Palace were covered with seats [54] which were sold to Spectators for a Louis d’or each.  Occupied ourselves with walking around the city during the day—and were woken the next morning early by the din under our windows of bands playing, carriages passing &c &c.Rose immediately, and found the people already collecting, in fact the large square in front of the Palace already nearly filled with the various processions.  The King gave also an audience to the nobility, Diplomatic corps &c. and the line of carriages entering into the palace, directly opposite to our lodgings was unceasing.  Of course the equipages were as brilliant as could be made, and every one seemed to try to surpass some other one in his establishment.  It seemed as if there must have been at least 50 royal carriages that were sent by the King, to wait upon the many distinguished strangers, Ambassadors &c that had arrived in Berlin.

The many members of the diff[erent] branches of the Royal Family attended with their carriages & six, The Royal carriage having Eight [55] with 4 outriders.  The scene was truly magnificent and though, now and t hen a slight shower fell, still every thing seemed gay at least in the first part of the day.  For later it rained quite hard, and having no shelter many must have suffered much.  The ascendance of the King to the throne was announced by Cannon and the various deputations went forward and swore fidelity.  As it rained at the time very hard I contented myself with getting one glance of His Majesty and returning to the house.  Throughout the whole day the city was crowded with people (30,000 strangers said to be in Berlin) and in the evening, it was almost impossible to get along—a carriage could not be obtained for money, and walking was almost dangerous.  We had no other resource however, and footed it. Every house and building in the city was illuminated.  It was almost like fairy land, one blaze of [56] light.  The Arsenal in particular (considered as the finest specimen of modern architecture in Europe) surpassed any thing  I ever witnessed. It was completely one blaze of light.  Its size is immense, and there was seemingly a space left removed, where a light could be placed to advantage.

Zeughaus (Arsenal), Berlin

On to Berlin for the coronation of the King

Friederich Wilhelm IV

Started 9 o’clock at night (Oct 12) in the Schnell-Post.  Very comfortable with the exception of being obliged to change vehicles at every Post, as we were in one of the carriages.  Learned on the way that the King of Prussia was to be crowned in a few days at Berlin!  Scarcely knew what to make of it, as we had heard nothing of it before.  Reached Berlin, in 34 hours about 7 am, where we found some 9 or 10 Diligences arriving at the same time with ourselves. Saw as we passed into the city grand preparations for some great Fete.  We now saw that there was really something going to happen.  Hotels all full, every room engaged a month beforehand, and very few private lodgings to be obtained.. after finding several rooms however, some at nine thalers a day Lo! finally engaged some at random at five thalers per day! and really [53] we were very fortunate indeed, as many could scarcely get any at all, and ours proved to be very comfortable, and to be directly opposite the Palace.

Arrival in Hamburg

Hamburg Opera House

Reached Hamburg late in the evening. . When we landed were able to make ourselves very comfortable.   Occupied myself in writing home, and taking a tour around the outskirts of the town, which is much the best part of it, and standing in the window looking at the any very singular costumes of the peasant women in the streets.  No female servant thinks of carrying any thing under her arm which may be seen, but they universally cover it over with a shawl or dark colored cloth.  Often very handsome.  Visited the Opera where we heard some very good music.

We have left [52] our two American friends, who had travelled with us all the way from London, they going to Paris and we to Berlin.  

Farewell to Russia, hello to German dinners

When fairly under weigh for Hamburgh I began to feel almost like going home, in fact quite happy to get away from Russia, though by no means sorry that I had visited it.

Found our boat very slow—but comfortable, and found on board of it real German style in serving dinners. Viz first—beef, then fish, and other dishes, then pudding, after this another joint of meat, a dessert of fresh fruit, and salad or pickles always eaten at the same time with sweetmeats!

Travemünde 

After a voyage of 4 days found ourselves safe at Travemunde a small post near Lubeck which city was reached in some 2 hours happy to find ourselves once more where things looked clean, (particularly so always in Germany) and where we could make ourselves easily understood by French or English.  Slept at Lubeck and the next day started for Hamburgh 45 miles in 10 ½ hours! [51] the road in places being as bad as with us in Swamp countries. The reason of its being so bad, being that the King of Denmark who owns part of the road, and leaves it in as bad a state as possible, in order to induce the Lithuanians to leave a small port in his dominions (Kiel) in place of Travemunde, for St. Petersburgh.

Sheldon's mother, Maria Clarissa

Maria Clarissa (Lewis) Leavitt by
Samuel Lovett Waldo
Brooklyn Museum of Art

These portraits were painted in the 1820s, by the same artist as Sheldon's portrait to the left.

David Leavitt, Sheldon's father

David Leavitt by Samuel Lovett Waldo
Brooklyn Museum of Art

David Leavitt has a quite extensive Wikipedia page.

Fête for Princess Marie of Hesse and Prince Alexander; checking out at customs

Wedding of Grand Prince
Alexander and Princess Marie
of Hesse (Maria Alexandrovna)

The whole city had been topsy-turvy for some time past, with sham fights, taking the citadel near the Hermitage fete all for the amusement of L’affiancée of the Grand Duke, Prince Royal—the fact is, the citizens must give up every thing to military movement.  The bridges across the Neva are removed and they must cross in small boats.  The squares are filled with Cossacks, cannon fire, and all must keep their windows open, if they do not wish them broken bvy the cannon.  Military life is all in fact.  My books I had the good fortune to retrieve from the Customs House, but my pistols were not delivered up, until the moment we sailed (midnight Oct 4.) and then were brought down by a soldier to Cronstadt some 20 miles from the city. Thus I was forced to pay the duty of Six silver rubles a pound on them nearly 5 dollars a pound.  

Museum of Mines

We had now but one sight to look at, when we should be glad  and ready to leave the country having been really so bothered by the Police what we began to get out of humour.  Thus our last visit was to the mining corps, and the museum of minerals attached to it.  The whole is indeed a very large fine looking building, and is considered as being a collection of minerals not surpassed in their kind in Europe.  The mines, are fac-similes of the different mines of Russia and the Urals generally, all under ground and made with great care and exactitude.  It gave us a very good idea of Siberia and other places, and the [49] the manner in which the convicts labor there.

Return to St. Petersburg

After taking another drive around the city we concluded to start again for St. Petersburg hoping to reach it in time to see the Entrée of the Royal Family (our passports for this once we were able to have arranged by a Valet—Duplace).  We again started in the same conveyance, and after rather a shorter drive than before, reached the city, and learned that the Fête had taken place in our absence, the Emperor as usual only giving the people one days warning.  I myself was in most excruciating agony on my arrival from a rheumatism in my left shoulder, that came upon me suddenly in a few hours and luckily passed off in a day or two.  The climate is worse than any other that I have ever heard of, such sudden changes.______ Now we were again obliged [48] to again repeat the ceremony with regard to our passports, and to show the papers in which we had advertised ourselves for nine days (9).  We obtained a Russian pass for Hamburg and had some difficulty in getting back our original passports.  A piece of money settled that however.  

Church of St. Basil

We now visited the singular Church of St. Basil said to have been constructed for one of the Emperors who, after it was finished, tore out the eyes of the artist in order that he might not build another similar for any other monarch.  It is a singular [47]  building composed of several distinct chapels so arranged that services can be performed in them all at the same time, without the one disturbing the other.

Greetings to our Baltic visitors

Sveicināti mūsu latviešu draugiem!

Ja tere ka meie sõbrad Eestist.

We took a drive the next day to visit a branch of the Great Foundling Hospital of Moscow.  We were quite anxious to gain admission to the main part hwere the younger children were, but we were told by our lying valet-de-place, who had had some quarrel with the governor that it was repairing, and could not be seen.  So we were obliged to content ourselves with the smaller one, which however contains some 300 boys. The institution founded by Catherine II has under its protection 20,000 children of different [45] ages. In the larger branch of the habitation, there are 700  Wetnurses employed and once a week different peasants, come into town, and being known to the Directors, are allowed to take one of the young children with them to bring up, being paid a small sum for their care.  The major part of the children formerly were illegitimate.  No questions were asked when they were left—if but a small sum was left along with them, the boys were made officers in the army, and the girls governesses—if no money was left at the time, they were brought up to some useful trade.  Their education is well attended to, and they are particularly instructed in any one branch that it is found their talents are adapted to.  Each child on entering the institution has a numbered token attached to its’ neck a duplicate of which is given to the parent, who by this can reclaim the child whenever they may feel disposed to.  The children after leaving pay some sujm annually, for a certain [46] length of time to the Institution.  The 300 boys that we saw were all occupied at trades or their studies . [The] Establishment is kept in admirable order, with fine dormitories, a hospital, &c.  We saw them enter the room for dinner, marching in regular order and each standing behind his seat, then at a signal given they all commenced singing in a manner I have never heard surpassed by boys.  Music, Painting, drawing &c &c are well taught.  The expense of such an Establishment is necessarily enormous, though the Emperor by means of it obtains annually many for his army.  Different rules are being made relative to separating legitimate from the illegitimate children__________ 

Fedor Alekseev and his pupils. The Foundling Hospital in Moscow.1800-1802.
Watercolour on paper. The Hermitage, St. Petersburg, Russia.

After leaving the interior of the Kremlin we passed by the Spaskoi [sic] Gate or Holy Gate, under which no person can pass without uncovering the head, and the Russians are so particular with regard to this that it is said, no bribe would induce one of them to pass under this gate with his hat on, were he not compelled to doff it by the Sentinel who stands always by--- The reason of its great sanctity, I cannot find.  ‘Tis dedicated to some saint I believe.  

Spassky Gate, Kremlin

Born to Command

We were shown in another room the saddles of Catherine II.  We had seen in another room a portrait of this singular woman, in her favorite manner of appearing before her guards, mounted and dressed as a man, and really she looked as if she were born to command.  Her saddles were completely covered with jewels and certainly very rich, but do not now seem so much so, since I have seen the magnificent ones presented by the father to the Emperor.  Below we were shown several old state carriages & sleighs made at different times and in different countries, driven in things they [covered], almost like a parlor with sofas, mirrors &c within, and requiring some two dozen horses to draw them.  In still another room we were shown the model of a building which Catherine II intended once to have [43] enclosed the whole of the Kremlin with—which project however she abandoned as man others of the same kind, well, perhaps for her purse, as it certainly was for the beauty of Moscow.  It was a great piece of work and if carried out according to the model must have cost an immense amount of money.  

The Great Bell and the Crown Room of the Kremlin

Ivan the Great Bell Tower and Archangel Cathedral

Our next visit was to the old Tartar Palace comprising now only two or three small rooms but most richly furnished, the windows filled with most beautiful stained glass and the floors handsomely inlaid.  They [40] are kept in the same order as when occupied by the Tartar Kings. We started now to take a look-out from the tower of St. John’s. In going to it we passed the great Bell, the largest ever cast.  Its size is prodigious, and can scarcely be imagined from its dimensions being given.   It is some 24 feet in height, and four in thickness in the largest part.  It is now placed upon a pedestal, with the piece which was broken out of it in its fall caused by fire lying alongside.  This piece is more than six ft high through small enough in appearance when beside this huge mass.  It had remained a great while buried in the Earth when it fell till lately raised to its present situation by the present Emperor.  After obgaining a fine view of the city from Ivan’s Tower, which has a number of very large bells suspended in different parts, we proceeded to the Treasury of the [41] Kremlin, containing great riches and many interesting articles.  We were met by the General who was remarkablh polite to us as Americans, and seemed somewhat surprised that we should have come so far to see Moscow.  We entered through one or two rooms containing old armor &c somewhat after the manner of the Tower of London, to the crown room, containing the crowns of all the kings and princes that have ever owned fealty to Russia, [illeg.], &c, and amongst others the crown and throne of Poland and the scepter of Stanislaus.  The riches & curiosities were all visited by us in one course and we passed out through the same room that we entered by.  When we saw placed under a portrait of Emperor Alexander, a small box containing the Constitution of Poland and above the box, were placed a bunch of keys some half dozen in number, belonging [42] also to fated Poland.  

The churches of the Kremlin

Bands [37] of Music men stationed in the grounds, and the fine looking mounted troops of the Emperor were stationed there to preserve order.  In the buildings of the Park some were amusing themselves with dancing thus in promenading and others still in looking at the illuminations and fire-works.  We returned home soon afterward and the next morning taking a guide, started out in a carriage to the Kremlin & its curiosities.  I never could learn with certainty the meaning of the word Kremlin.  It is I believe a [Slav?] word, and by some is said to be a Palace, and by others “The Holy Place.”  Whatever is the real meaning of the name however it in reality in itself comprises a great deal, being within the walls encircling it, a congregation of Palaces, Towers, Mosques, Churches, [illeg.].   From the Environs of the City this singular assemblage of singular & beautiful objects rises conspicuous, and is the first place visited as a matter of course [38] by the stranger.  On our entrance within one of its many gateways, guarded by sentinels, we visited one of the Churches.  Strikingly singular in appearance, and yet at the first glance so strangely reminding one of San Marco of Venice inasmuch as this has its whole sides & walls covered with pictures of the many saints of the Greek Church, covered in the usual manner with dresses of gold & silver ornaments, leaving only the few hands & feet visible.  As we entered, the priests were in the midst of Mass.  The church was crowded with rich & poor, some looking carelessly about, others kneeling and touching the marble pavement with their foreheads.  The priests of the Greek Church are in their general appearance a more cleanly racae at least than those of the Catholic (Roman) well dressed, and universally with long beards, moustache & carrying in their hands a long goldheaded baton, and dressed in [39]some dark colored frock bound tight around the waist.  The Church as we entered was filled with incense, and the choir (without instruments) singing in as fine a manner as I have ever heard out of St. Peter’s.  We remained till the music was over and passed out to visit one or more of the churches within the walls.  The next we entered was in a great degree similar to the one first visited, though not as rich, but the more interesting, as containing the tombs of the Tartar Tsars.  They were all arranged on either side of the Entrance in rows, being nothing more than small sarcophagi or stone-coffins, with a Persian pall thrown over each one.

Droschkies

Town Carriage (Droshky). by Alexander Orlowski

There is still another species of  vehicle and manner of driving here that immediately attracts the attention of a stronger, and this is, their droschkies, a vehicle peculiar to Russia alone, Somewhat resembling an Irish jaunting-car, and still quite different.  In the first place the wheels are not more than 3 ft in diameter and nearly always of the same size [35] before as well as behind, the seat of which is no higher than the wheel, and placed between them runs fore & aft, having room for one person beside the driver.  Both of them sit astraddle exactly as on horseback and consequently “spoon fashion” as we say in a cold winters night in bed, so that one is in pretty close contact with your bearded Russ, and stand a tolerably fair chance of finding there half a dozen of those little animals that the French describe by saying “qui saute,” “which jumps.”—The wheels are necessarily defended from throwing mud by fenders completely covering the tops.  The beauty of the horses and the manner in which they are harnessed however tend to make these singular vehicles appear quite light and fanciful.  The (really most beautiful) horses are harnessed as ours excepting that they never have any blinders to their head-stalls, making the horse appear almost [36] wild, a yoke is fastened on to the end of the shaft quite high, and standing over the neck of the animal, towards the top of which yoke the horse’s head is raised by straps, thus keeping it quite up, as our check reins tend to do. Generally on the near side of this horse which is placed between shafts as usual, is placed another which is never seen to trot but is always on a canter, whilst his mate already trots & frequently very fast too.  This nigh horse always has his head quite low and always turned to the left, by means of a single rein pulled by the driver.  Taking it altogether, it presents the most singular appearance I ever saw of the kind, and looks really very fine.  They drive like the wind, and still an accident seldom takes place, as there is a law, (which is rigidly enforced upon every one), which orders that any horses that run over any one shall be immediately sold to pay damages.

" A Russian equipage is a singular thing"

Peterskoi Park

Thomas Rowlandson

Peterskoi Park was this Evening filled with the society & beauty of Moscow, and I do not remember having any where seen a gayer show than [33] there.  A Russian equipage is a singular thing[.]  Their coaches & barouches, however are exactly English in appearance, though their coachmen footmen & postillions, are as different as could well [be] imagined.  In the first place all drive with at least four horses, sometimes six and arranged as French Posters in one respect, that is the leaders, with a young boy on the off horse as postillion, are placed with immensely long traces at the distance of some ten feet or more from the wheel-horses.  The horses are the handsomest I have ever seen, of the Arabian breed very long tails & manes, beautifully formed & as gay as one could wish.  The Coachman dressed in the same manner as the postillion is seated on the box having charge only of the wheel horses, which from the manner of his holding his reins one would suppose was as much as he could attend to, holding one in [34] either hand exactly like an old woman.  This the postillion business in front so manages his pair and keeps crying out at the top of his voice to clear the road, the footman behind presents rather a more civilized appearance being dressed in modern livery.  But the other two, (the coachman with his long beard moustache is in fact never shaved at all) are dressed in a blue cloth frock reaching down to below his knees and a red sash tied around their waists, a heavy pair of boots and the little low-crowned hat of the country.  

A hard case

There was one hard case in the number, and that of a young [32] female. After having her sentence and just on the point of starting for the Colony she was [permitted?] by one of the officers to take a pair of shoes, being to the prison,, for the use of the Convict.  The officer at the time snatched them away from her, gave her a terrible kick and placed her again in the ranks.—We now returned to dinner taking a short drive through the grounds of the Palace of the Empress, small but very pretty.  Shortly after dinner we again entered our four-in-hand, and drove out to the grounds of the Peterskoi Palace.  Just as in France & [illeg.] Europe generally, Sunday Evening is occupied by the upper classes in visiting these Public Drives, and then going to the play.   

More on Siberian-bound convicts; Rev. Baird describes their crimes

Rev. Robert Baird, temperance campaigner 

The wagons now brought up the rear of the band, and to the sound of a military drum, these poor creatures commenced their march to a place from which the majority were never to return.  We saw them leave, surrounded by his Majesty’s   [31] troops, and long after they had departed we could hear the clanking of their chains which made a proper accompaniment to their helpless march.-----I met on this ground the Rev^d Mr Baird of Paris, and he gave us some of the various crimes—among them we saw some few in other respects like their fellows excepting their chains, and these we were told were Nobles, a singular distinction made for their stile.   There were some few in this band who were convicted of murder, but the majority were sentenced for some trivial offence, a petty theft, or an attempt to rebel against some demand of their owners.  These latter were sent to what is called the nearer Siberia for colonizing, and the former to the mines.  

Convicts destined for Siberia

Turning from our view of the city & the thoughts occasioned by it, of its former history, we [28] passed a short distance to the right to a building guarded by [Sentinels?], not looking much like a prison though strongly barred with iron.  We arrived a few moments before the prisoners were brought out, and leaving our carriage, stationed ourselves before the main gate of the building in front of a number of troops formed in a square waiting for the appearance & purpose of conducting & guarding the Convicts.  In a few moments, the gate was opened and we heard the voice of the officer on duty call out a name, and out stepped one of the unfortunate beings destined to spend the remainder of his days as a prisoner in Siberia.  He was dressed as well as his fellows in the Convict’s dress of a mixed home-spun cloth, making a cloak & pants and a pair of boots.  One half of his head [29] was shaved making his appearance singular indeed, whilst the other half of his head was, au naturel.  He had an iron chain fastened to either ancle, and kept suspended, (so as not to interfere with his walking) by a belt tied around his waist.  In this manner were some eighty-odd of these beings dressed preparatory to their weary journey from Moscow.  Amongst these we now and then saw a female, some as convicts and others following their husbands to their place of Banishment.  In front of the band ranged out in order, stood an old man with a plate in his hand collecting some small favors from the few spectators and officers standing about .The gate was now opened wide and out drove some half dozen wagons with luggage and those convicts who were too [30] old or too infirm to walk this six week journey. Here and there you could see a little baby in the arms of its mother, unconscious of course of its destination & future life.  There was an old woman in one of the wagons whose countenance I think I shall never forget.  She must have been near seventy years of age as dark as a Bohemian who was sitting beside her, and as she left the gates of the prison, her face expressed more than words could ever do; before her was an old man probably her husband and she was casting her lot still with him..  

Napoleon's Moscow

One Evening at Moscow we took a short drive out on the road by which Napoleon entered the City.  There is an Eminence at a short distance from the City, which [27] would shut out the view of Moscow from one approaching it from the opposite side.  Was this that the great personification of Ambition, of good & bad deeds, after leading his weary soldiers through the snows of Russia, harassed on all sides by the waiting Cossacks, first saw the end of his journey, and how taking up a handful of the Earth, turned to his followers and cheered them wit the words which in his mouth seemed almost equivalent to Victory “Voici la terre de Moscou.”  A few days afterwards and this great army left the place of their destination, a broken band and Napoleon wended his way to Paris, his confidence in his Omnipotence somewhat reduced from the place where he put it---- 

Moscow truly foreign--the city after the fire of 1812

The burning of Moscow

Our driver brought us to the top of an elevated piece of ground when we turned and beheld the city at our feet, the Moskva winding through the city and [26] losing itself on our left in the midst of a pretty country for this part of the world.  I have been so long away from home, and have been so accustomed to visiting new places, and considering them for the time being as my real home, that people and places now remind me of really being as far distant from my native land as I naturally am, but looking at Moscow from this height I was forced to think that I was truly in a foreign land.  All that I had heretofore viewed had been European (so to speak), modern—in fact in some degree like America, but this was new.  I beheld before me that which I had before seen in imagination only, and [illeg.] to myself as Asiatic, Oriental, in the times of the Caliph, in fact as something which belonged to another race of people.  Moscow of course is in a great degree modern as regards its’ buildings, yet when its Churches [26] & Mosques were burned as well as its private residences, in 1812, they have generally been rebuilt after the same models, and though often new in materials, are old in style.  This burning of Moscow has of late caused many words pro & con.  As regards the Great Conqueror who here first felt himself somewhat at least subdued, the Russians themselves universally deny the charge of having fired the City & place the fact upon the Soldiers of Napoleon.  By so doing I must say I think they destroy much of the romance of history attributing the deed to their determination, that if the Emperor entered Moscow that he should do so after its glory had departed.  

The view of Moscow from Sparrow Hills (Воробьёвы го́ры)

View of Moscow from Sparrow Hills - Ivan Aivazovsky, 1848

It was three o’clock on Sunday morning that we stopped before the gates of Moscow and in the course of an hour afterward enjoying ourselves most luxuriantly in a place where we could kick an English bed, at W. Howards, the best hotel in Moscow (said to be so at least—though ‘tis making the others out to be most villainous.  ‘tis kept by an Englishman & wife, and a more parsimonious old couple I never want to see in the shape of Host & Hostess, however I have finished with them).  We arrived on Sunday Morning [24] greatly refreshed, and determined as soon as possible to finish our signt seeing in order to be again at the Capital for the Fête. Sundays in Russia are the same as in France, little or no distinction is made from other days. ---We took a carriage and four horses, abreast as usual (no carriage will leave the city with less than four horses), in order to go out to what is called Sparrow Hills, where we should be able to obtain a fine view of Moscow & also see the poor Convicts depart in chains for their long march to Siberia.  There is no English church we were told in Moscow, and in driving through the city we scarcely saw an English face, though I believe there are many there as in every city of the World.   And now we obtained the first view of the city of Mosques, and Tartars.  It was so late the previous evening when we arrived that one could get no view of it [25] all in passing through its streets, some here and there, some silvered dome would glisten in the starlight, and some tall steeple would shew itself from amidst the surrounding buildings.  Moscow is the most singular city in Europe—perfectly Oriental in its appearance, and carrying on at once to the times of the Prophet. Mosques, domes, minarets, & spires are on every side of you.  Look where you will and your eye will rest upon some edifice of worship called by what term you will presenting its half-a-dozen spires or domes, gilded, silvered, or spangled,  or of a deep blue, now a green and then one burnished like gold, the Greek Cross surmounting all, with here and there the Turkish Crescent beneath the cross.

The Greek Church

Though such wild furious looking fellows, they are said to be very harmless, and as I can say from experience are most strangely polite to every one.  In their small log villages you may see a crowd standing lazily about, and another of their acquaintance coming up on his dirty sheep skin is received by them all, with uncovered heads in fact as polite as a Frenchman.  In these poor starving towns, with no building there better than a dirty log hut, you universally on this route find one or more really noble looking churches and mosques.  In this part of Russia, as in Moscow they have copied the houses of worship from the Turks, and their church is generally formed like a mosque, with its half-a dozen colored & spangled [22] domes and minarets.  In the Greek Church, in most respects just like the Catholic, there is apparently much more superstition than in the Roman—certainly true in the lower classes of Society, or I should say life [?].  The people seem  completely devoted to the forms at least of religion. It is one canon of the Greek church to admit no images into their churches, yet walk into them and you will find them filled with pictures, of Saints, Madonnas, Christs, & yet almost universally with the bodies of the figures covered with silver or gold leaving the head, hands & feet only visible, and before one of these virgins, you will see some sheep-skin-clad serf placing his penny candle and prostrating his body ‘till his forehead touches the pavement, rising and crossing himself for an half hour at a time without cessation, and all the while muttering over some form of prayer to the Holy Mother, or other saint whose likeness [23] is before him.  As far as I can judge they are as much worshippers of idols as the Heathen of old.  You cannot in St Pg or in fact in any part of the Empire pass a church without seeing before it every minute of the day some one stopping taking off his hat and crossing himself frequently and apparently & I believe sincerely devoutfully and then going on his way.

A disturbing episode: "the privilege of whipping"

One sees scarcely any people on the whole route to Moscow but these poor devils, their villages being about 20 versts apart, and built of logs.  The houses though are generally well put together, and look as if they might be made comfortable.  Nothing of any interest occurred on our route to Moscow which took us some 84 hours to accomplish, if I except a scene that took place one night which showed us how these serfs are treated sometimes.  I will not say it is general though I am informed that  there are some people who have the privilege of whipping them without being called to a/c [account].  After taking our dinner [illeg.] ourselves, quite late one evening (near midnight) on leaving the house we found ten men lying upon the bare ground, the weather being very cold, with nothing but their usual dress upon them, which consists of a low, belt-crowned hat (usually covered with buckles), a whole sheep-[19]skin formed into a sort of frock, in fair weather worn with the wool next the skin (literally) and in foul weather turned inside out, having under this sheepskin (said to be handed down from Father to Son) a calico-dicky (such as found as the boys in America often wear) covering the chest only and in some instances a pair of blue calico pants, and a huge pair of boots. We saw these poor fellows lying upon the cold pavement, of rough stones of a Russian night in September. We left them to their dreams and got into our Carriage, and composed ourselves for sleep, out of which we were shortly aroused by the horses stopping and an altercation taking place between our guard and the driver, who as always is the case was a serf.  I looked out the window and could not at first understand the cause of the noise and we all thought that someone on the road had stopped us for some purpose or other.  I immediately got out followed by Hancock [20] and was just in time to see our guard strike the driver a terribly severe blow full in the face, and then throwing him down beat him worse than if he were a dog.  Not understanding the language I could not discover the cuase of the row, and we thought it best not to interfere, however waiting some little time we caused the guard to desist.  When the driver rose, and attempted to walk away, the guard now took away his whip and belaboured him diligently with it he compelled him to mount his seat, and drive us forwards.  I should have thought that any [being?] that had life would have attempted to defend himself, but this poor brute stoodstill and said little or nothing.  He may have been drunk for all that I know to the contrary and deserved it, but I am confident that if one of our negroes had been known to have been so terribly beaten by his owner as was this poor fellow—every [21] paper in the Union would call the man a brute.  I almost expected to hear on our return that the fellow was dead, but if not ‘twas his Russian head that alone saved him. 

On to Moscow; Russian serfs

We of course had the privilege, being in our new Carriage, of stopping where & when we pleased, but no one thinks of sleeping in a Russian Hotel, they being almost universally filled with fleas & vermin. The Inns on this road furnish very good meals however, being kept principally by Germans.  Fortifying ourselves, with some bottles of wine (the water here is almost death to a stranger) a written vocabulary of what Russian we might need on the journey, expressed however in English characters, & for [attempting?] pronunciation (for a man to speak Russian well he must first have one of his jaws broken) and a good stock of patience.  We entered the Diligence which was to be our house for some eighty odd hours as it proved to be.  We had a lady in the party which tended [17] somewhat to make us a little more pleased with the trip.  Our horses (four in number[)] were all abreast, miserable looking beasts truly, and miserably harnessed; but able to go ahead, when urged on by the blows and cries of a Russian Muzhik—their serfs (of whom there are under the dominion of the Emperor 36,000,000 out of 56,000,000 inhabitants) and worse absolutely than our blacks, the only advantage that they have over our blacks being that they cannot be sold, only with the estate to which they belong.  They however are liable to be drawn for soldiers whenever the Emperor wants them, and every owner must furnish his quota.  They certainly approach nearer to brutes than any human beings I have ever seen, /their faces consequently are covered with hair as far as their faces are concerned, and the back part of their head, from their neck upwards is shaved close for the space of an inch or two, and the hair behind cut perfectly square, giving them a [18] very outré appearance. 

Preparing for Moscow

We have now been hesitating for some time as regards taking a trip to Moscow, and have now finally concluded on starting immediately hoping to be able to return in time to witness the Entry of his Majesty [Emperor Nicholas I]  into the Capital, but it is so undecided and he is so fond of taking the people by surprise, that no one knows when it will take place, and it is useless for us to wait much longer, as the season [15] is getting to be so late, that if deferred we should be obliged to give up the trip altogether.  Orders have been given by the Police to every household to keep themselves in readiness for an illumination at any moment.  Have been to the Chancery Office where we were again examined as usual, and given a paper allowing us by presenting it at the Police office, to obtain a fresh passport for Moscow, presented ourselves at the Police Office General, and after again answering all the questions once again, and paying twenty-five paper roubles, &c, about five dollars.  We obtained a pass for Moscow, the Police retaining our original Passports until we may leave the Empire.  Four of us in Company (Americans) obtained a Diligence and guard and at 2 o’clock P.M. of Wednesday 16 Sep we started for the city of Moscow.  The road is the only good one in all Russia, being McAdamized its entire length which is here measured by Versts, the Verst being equal to about ¾ of a Mile English. [16]  The distance between the cities is some 670 Versts making about 500 miles, and this was to be accomplished without our stopping at all on the road excepting for Breakfast & Dinner.

A visit to the French Theater

Visited the French Theater, this Evening, and I must say that I have never seen any thing so well arranged in any other city.  There is not a column to be found sup-[15]porting the boxes giving a very light and open appearance to the whole.  The boxes are lined with crimson velvet, and containing chairs for each person.  The pit, also as generally in Europe, being quite fashionable, is filled with chairs, so that no one is crowded.  I have never seen such order & silence in the first theaters of Paris as is here observed.  One would almost think himself in church.  Every thing being so admirably conducted, the performance was very good and the company large.  The upper classes of the Russians generally speak in French.

Mikhailovsky Theater (1860)

Admiralty Square and the equestrian statue of Peter the Great

The Admiralty, designed by Adrian Zakharov (viewed in 1996)

The City is truly on a grand scale and presents a bold and handsome appearance, every house in it being [white?] I believe with the exception of the palace. The Admiralty occupies the whole of an immense square and is a very regular and handsomely built edifice, larger I should suppose than any other one building in Petersburg. [14] Our part of the Admiralty faces a large & fair open square. (Most villainously paved however) with the Senate and Synod houses on the opposite side, the third side being formed by the River and the fourth by a very fine church now being built, and intending to rival the largest churches on the Continent. In the center of this square stands the celebrated bronze Equestrian statue to Peter the Great, raised to him by Catherine Secunda.  It is the largest of the kind I have yet seen and most admirably executed, possessing a very bold and Warlike.  Peter is represented as on horseback, his horse’s hoof at the same time crushing a serpent.  Unlike other statues of the kind generally, the horse is standing on his hind legs solely, with his body very much raised – consequently requiring an immense weight in the after part of the body.

The Hermitage

Snuff box carved by Peter I - Hermitage

We revisited today the Hermitage, which was in a great degree destroyed by fire some few years since, and is not got entirely rebuilt, still containing a very fine collection of paintings, and a most splendid suite of apartments, private and for public view.  In one of the many chambers, are several pieces of the work of Peter the Great, some carving in Ivory very [13] well executed, by this Imperial Jack of all Trades. The Palace of the Emperor, stands directly next to and in fact is connected with the Hermitage, and outwardly is the finest of any of the Palaces I have seen in Europe.  The size is immense, built of the various orders of Architecture, and all of (in appearance at least) the red sandstone that we use for the coping and/or Windows at home in brick houses. I say in appearance, for I have found out that the finest buildings in the city are almost entirely built of stucco, which however detracts nothing from its beauty, for they are all admirably styled and handsomely ornamented with bas-reliefs &c. &c.