A stormy afternoon

Gulf of Corinth

Patmos contains few remains of antiquities, and is interesting now principally on a/c of the stand it took in the late revolution. Now however we found the first beautiful specimens of Greek Costume--some of them particularly the Albanian, in the handsomest dress I have ever seen. The Greeks universally wear the Fez or cap peculiar to the country, being always made of scarlet with a very rich blue silk tassel.  The men at Patmos particularly are [91] remarkably fine looking, tall, and having an air almost of nobility about them.  We had few opportunities, of judging of the ladies of the island.  They confine themselves to being kept almost as much secluded as the Turkish.  The traveling in Greece is performed mainly riding on horseback, the roads being impassable for vehicles to pass over. Taking each  one [horse] and two for the guide & baggages, and various provisions cooking utensils & bedding with us, we started and after a delightful ride of some 8 hours along the gulf of Lepanto reached Vostizza [now Aigio], a small village on the Gulf. Our ride of the day, had little of interest in it excepting such as arose from the fine scenery and passing the spot where was fought the great battle between the Turks & Christians (that of Lepanto). Our dinner or lunch was taken in a Khan, being a building for man [92] and horse, bringing them pretty close together. We found a single room at Vostizza, or rather what should have been a room, for twas only half-finished or [illeg.], containing an a apology for one stool. Cooking our supper in another part of the home, a good appetite taking the place of good cooking. We slept on mattresses on the floor, and all three turned in together. Were early in the saddle in the morning and started again for the convent of Magaspelion--the ride being for some distance by the side of the Gulf showing Mt Parnassus on the opposite side--and then turning off to the right amongst the mountains. We continued mounting over various ascents over bare sheep-paths, until about 3 P.M. when we were about some two hours from the Convent (and it was necessary to reach it before sunset in order to gain admittance) it commenced raining severely [93] and we had some doubts about being able to go forward. However we pushed on, and continued mounting upwards toward the Convent during the most severe storm that it was ever my fortune to be caught in. There was no recourse left, but to keep on moving. Our horses at times, almost blinded by the remarkably vivid flashes of lightening would stand still for some seconds as if afraid to move. The road was in many places nothing more than the gullies which had been formed by the many rains, and through which the torrents now came rushing down with great force, at times nearly reaching to our horses' tails and making it appear almost impracticable for them to succeed in reaching the top. Our McIntoshes protected the upper part of our forearms from the effect of the Storm, but every other  portion of our clothing was wet through completely.[94] On the whole it was the most fanciful scene I have ever been compelled to add part to.

Ancona, Corfu, and Patmos

Ancona by William Clarkson Stanfield

Temple of Artemis, Corfu

[89] November 16, 1840. Left "Trieste" on the evening of this Day in the Austrian Steamer "Kolorant" for Athens. We had most delightful weather upon the Adriatic, and after about 15 hours sail we arrived at Ancona, the Eastern port in the Papal Dominions, and though larger and rather superior in some respects to the Western (Civita Vecchia) still in many respects it greatly resembles it, viz, in being scarcely worth seeing, filthy, and containing nothing of interest. Remained there until Evening and sailed for Corfu, where we arrived after 48 hours passage. This island is being newly defended by the English as Ancona is by his Holiness. The island itself is on a/c [account] of its situation & scenery a very pretty spot, but its town & port are filthy as the towns of Italy. though nominally English it is in the character of the people a mixture of a Greek Maltese & Italian, and I suppose is considered by the English as valuable solely on account of its situation. [90] It is most strongly fortified and in case of war would be a most essential point. Leaving Corfu in the evening we again started for Patmos, the first Greek town, which we have seen. We reached it in some 18 hours from Corfu, passing by the hills of Albania, the site of Missolonghi, and by numerous islands forming most delightful scenery. It had been our intention to have continued on in the same steamer to Athens, but on arriving at Patmos we concluded to leave it and proceed on our own.

A real Italian funeral

Cathedral, Trieste

As I am now sitting there is passing before me a funeral after the real Italian style. Priests in their white robes, with each a long lighted taper in hand, and a number of others following the coffin in the same manner.  The Coffin supported on the shoulders of some half a dozen persons, and covered with a large pall with the cross &c upon it. The crowd all uncovering their heads as it is passing--this a.m. the square was full of all descriptions of people and the small bell of a church close by was rung for Mass, when high & low, rich & poor all stood still and uncovered their heads, and remained thus 'till it was finished.  Really Italian throughout.
                           Sunday, Nov. 15, 1840. [88]

Free Port of Trieste

Cesare Dell'Acqua, Trieste is declared a free port

Reached Trieste on the P.M. of Friday [85] the 12th of November, when we were most happy to [refresh] ourselves once more in a comfortable bed.  Now wrote letters home and took passages for Athens to sail on Monday 11th-- Have been in hopes of getting letters from home and friends or from London but fear shall have to wait till we may arrive at Constantinople. Are in many respects much pleased with Trieste. It is very finely situated at the head of the Adriatic at the base of a very high hill cultivated with all the tropical fruits &c. Though a part of Austria, it is in every respect but exact situation an Italian town--language, customs, manners, &c all Italian. The place is thronged with people from every nation in the world, and being a free port, one sees here the Merchants, composed of Greeks Turks [86] and from every nation of Europe. The variety of costumes, some most beautiful and some most singular, is very great. Directly in front of my window is the Piazza Grande, and as a marketplace and actually filled with  peasants in every style of dress imaginable, and all selling the different kinds of fruit of this country and of the more southern climes.  I think I never saw such a motley assemblage of people and dress as there are in the streets of this city.  Being a free port and the only one of any consequence in Austria, 'tis flourishing, and increasing greatly. It has an admirable port and a great quantity of shipping--2d Ohio[?].

Commorodre Isaac Hull
by L. Pellegrin, 1841

Com^r [Isaac] Hull [1773-1841], at this time commander of the Mediterranean Squadron] has lately been here, and created quite a sensation.  Now gone to Smyrna. Intending sailing tomorrow for Ancona Corfu Patmos & Athens, spending some days in [87] Greece, and then going to Constantinople--and as matters appear at present rather more [foreseeable] from France, am in hopes of going to Alexandria, and returning home by way of Malta, reach Marseilles early in the spring--and then my voyage's over.

Vienna to Trieste

After spending some ten days or more very pleasantly, we took a carriage to ourselves, not being able to obtain the Courier, and started on the evening of the 10th of Nov for Trieste.  The journey which had we not had a carriage to ourselves would have been very fatiguing, was accomplished comparatively easily by us in some 70 hours. The posting regulations in Germany generally are admirably arranged--you pay before hand for every thing, horses, postillions &c., and have no further trouble. a paper is given you mentioning the time that each post must be performed in, and if any complaints they must be written on the paper and you obtain redress.  The route is very hilly, and very beautiful in scenery, the road in many parts made at great expense and sometimes almost equalling that over the Simplon.

Strauss at the Volksgarten

Another Evening I spent in listening to Strauss & his band in the Volksgarten. there was no dancing, and only a promenade. He performed all his newest pieces and was of course most enchanting.  His hair & eyes are very black and his face in parts deeply wrinkled from the movement of the muscles caused when he is executing some part of his pieces[.] at other times he is looking carelessly around nodding to acquaintances that he recognizes in the company, and apparently not attending to his music at all but his bow is always at work, and "discourses most excellent music."-----[84]

Handel in Vienna

Spanish Riding School (Spanische Reitschule), Wien

One morning I went to a musical festival at which there were 1100 performers. I counted myself over 300 violins! The Emperor & Royal family were all present and I should say at least 6000 spectators! It surpassed anything I have ever heard. The piece performed was Timotheus, can hardly be called [83] Opera or Oratorio, by Handel.* I shall never forget the sensation I had that morning. I did not think it possible for that number of persons to officiate at once – and everything went off most admirably.

*Actually, Alexander's Feast. This was a performance by the Gesellschaft der Musikfreunde (Society of Friends of Music) at the Spanish Riding School, home of the famed Lippizaner Stallions.