A stormy afternoon

Gulf of Corinth

Patmos contains few remains of antiquities, and is interesting now principally on a/c of the stand it took in the late revolution. Now however we found the first beautiful specimens of Greek Costume--some of them particularly the Albanian, in the handsomest dress I have ever seen. The Greeks universally wear the Fez or cap peculiar to the country, being always made of scarlet with a very rich blue silk tassel.  The men at Patmos particularly are [91] remarkably fine looking, tall, and having an air almost of nobility about them.  We had few opportunities, of judging of the ladies of the island.  They confine themselves to being kept almost as much secluded as the Turkish.  The traveling in Greece is performed mainly riding on horseback, the roads being impassable for vehicles to pass over. Taking each  one [horse] and two for the guide & baggages, and various provisions cooking utensils & bedding with us, we started and after a delightful ride of some 8 hours along the gulf of Lepanto reached Vostizza [now Aigio], a small village on the Gulf. Our ride of the day, had little of interest in it excepting such as arose from the fine scenery and passing the spot where was fought the great battle between the Turks & Christians (that of Lepanto). Our dinner or lunch was taken in a Khan, being a building for man [92] and horse, bringing them pretty close together. We found a single room at Vostizza, or rather what should have been a room, for twas only half-finished or [illeg.], containing an a apology for one stool. Cooking our supper in another part of the home, a good appetite taking the place of good cooking. We slept on mattresses on the floor, and all three turned in together. Were early in the saddle in the morning and started again for the convent of Magaspelion--the ride being for some distance by the side of the Gulf showing Mt Parnassus on the opposite side--and then turning off to the right amongst the mountains. We continued mounting over various ascents over bare sheep-paths, until about 3 P.M. when we were about some two hours from the Convent (and it was necessary to reach it before sunset in order to gain admittance) it commenced raining severely [93] and we had some doubts about being able to go forward. However we pushed on, and continued mounting upwards toward the Convent during the most severe storm that it was ever my fortune to be caught in. There was no recourse left, but to keep on moving. Our horses at times, almost blinded by the remarkably vivid flashes of lightening would stand still for some seconds as if afraid to move. The road was in many places nothing more than the gullies which had been formed by the many rains, and through which the torrents now came rushing down with great force, at times nearly reaching to our horses' tails and making it appear almost impracticable for them to succeed in reaching the top. Our McIntoshes protected the upper part of our forearms from the effect of the Storm, but every other  portion of our clothing was wet through completely.[94] On the whole it was the most fanciful scene I have ever been compelled to add part to.

Ancona, Corfu, and Patmos

Ancona by William Clarkson Stanfield

Temple of Artemis, Corfu

[89] November 16, 1840. Left "Trieste" on the evening of this Day in the Austrian Steamer "Kolorant" for Athens. We had most delightful weather upon the Adriatic, and after about 15 hours sail we arrived at Ancona, the Eastern port in the Papal Dominions, and though larger and rather superior in some respects to the Western (Civita Vecchia) still in many respects it greatly resembles it, viz, in being scarcely worth seeing, filthy, and containing nothing of interest. Remained there until Evening and sailed for Corfu, where we arrived after 48 hours passage. This island is being newly defended by the English as Ancona is by his Holiness. The island itself is on a/c [account] of its situation & scenery a very pretty spot, but its town & port are filthy as the towns of Italy. though nominally English it is in the character of the people a mixture of a Greek Maltese & Italian, and I suppose is considered by the English as valuable solely on account of its situation. [90] It is most strongly fortified and in case of war would be a most essential point. Leaving Corfu in the evening we again started for Patmos, the first Greek town, which we have seen. We reached it in some 18 hours from Corfu, passing by the hills of Albania, the site of Missolonghi, and by numerous islands forming most delightful scenery. It had been our intention to have continued on in the same steamer to Athens, but on arriving at Patmos we concluded to leave it and proceed on our own.

A real Italian funeral

Cathedral, Trieste

As I am now sitting there is passing before me a funeral after the real Italian style. Priests in their white robes, with each a long lighted taper in hand, and a number of others following the coffin in the same manner.  The Coffin supported on the shoulders of some half a dozen persons, and covered with a large pall with the cross &c upon it. The crowd all uncovering their heads as it is passing--this a.m. the square was full of all descriptions of people and the small bell of a church close by was rung for Mass, when high & low, rich & poor all stood still and uncovered their heads, and remained thus 'till it was finished.  Really Italian throughout.
                           Sunday, Nov. 15, 1840. [88]

Free Port of Trieste

Cesare Dell'Acqua, Trieste is declared a free port

Reached Trieste on the P.M. of Friday [85] the 12th of November, when we were most happy to [refresh] ourselves once more in a comfortable bed.  Now wrote letters home and took passages for Athens to sail on Monday 11th-- Have been in hopes of getting letters from home and friends or from London but fear shall have to wait till we may arrive at Constantinople. Are in many respects much pleased with Trieste. It is very finely situated at the head of the Adriatic at the base of a very high hill cultivated with all the tropical fruits &c. Though a part of Austria, it is in every respect but exact situation an Italian town--language, customs, manners, &c all Italian. The place is thronged with people from every nation in the world, and being a free port, one sees here the Merchants, composed of Greeks Turks [86] and from every nation of Europe. The variety of costumes, some most beautiful and some most singular, is very great. Directly in front of my window is the Piazza Grande, and as a marketplace and actually filled with  peasants in every style of dress imaginable, and all selling the different kinds of fruit of this country and of the more southern climes.  I think I never saw such a motley assemblage of people and dress as there are in the streets of this city.  Being a free port and the only one of any consequence in Austria, 'tis flourishing, and increasing greatly. It has an admirable port and a great quantity of shipping--2d Ohio[?].

Commorodre Isaac Hull
by L. Pellegrin, 1841

Com^r [Isaac] Hull [1773-1841], at this time commander of the Mediterranean Squadron] has lately been here, and created quite a sensation.  Now gone to Smyrna. Intending sailing tomorrow for Ancona Corfu Patmos & Athens, spending some days in [87] Greece, and then going to Constantinople--and as matters appear at present rather more [foreseeable] from France, am in hopes of going to Alexandria, and returning home by way of Malta, reach Marseilles early in the spring--and then my voyage's over.

Vienna to Trieste

After spending some ten days or more very pleasantly, we took a carriage to ourselves, not being able to obtain the Courier, and started on the evening of the 10th of Nov for Trieste.  The journey which had we not had a carriage to ourselves would have been very fatiguing, was accomplished comparatively easily by us in some 70 hours. The posting regulations in Germany generally are admirably arranged--you pay before hand for every thing, horses, postillions &c., and have no further trouble. a paper is given you mentioning the time that each post must be performed in, and if any complaints they must be written on the paper and you obtain redress.  The route is very hilly, and very beautiful in scenery, the road in many parts made at great expense and sometimes almost equalling that over the Simplon.

Strauss at the Volksgarten

Another Evening I spent in listening to Strauss & his band in the Volksgarten. there was no dancing, and only a promenade. He performed all his newest pieces and was of course most enchanting.  His hair & eyes are very black and his face in parts deeply wrinkled from the movement of the muscles caused when he is executing some part of his pieces[.] at other times he is looking carelessly around nodding to acquaintances that he recognizes in the company, and apparently not attending to his music at all but his bow is always at work, and "discourses most excellent music."-----[84]

Handel in Vienna

Spanish Riding School (Spanische Reitschule), Wien

One morning I went to a musical festival at which there were 1100 performers. I counted myself over 300 violins! The Emperor & Royal family were all present and I should say at least 6000 spectators! It surpassed anything I have ever heard. The piece performed was Timotheus, can hardly be called [83] Opera or Oratorio, by Handel.* I shall never forget the sensation I had that morning. I did not think it possible for that number of persons to officiate at once – and everything went off most admirably.

*Actually, Alexander's Feast. This was a performance by the Gesellschaft der Musikfreunde (Society of Friends of Music) at the Spanish Riding School, home of the famed Lippizaner Stallions.

Vienna

St. Stephen's Cathedral

Funeral Vault of Imperial Family

The actual city of Vienna is comparatively small and encircled by walls and high ramparts, but the whole city is completely surrounded by suburbs some 34 in number all very regularly built, of great extent and containing some fine buildings. These suburbs are separated from the city by very broad boulevard or open space some quarter of a mile or less from the gates – making the whole more healthful, & more beautiful and at the same time making the delightful promenade. On leaving Vienna the view is most delightful – particularly in a fine moonlit night as we had. The Cathedral of Saint Stephen's is remarkably fine old Gothic building of great antiquity and having the finest tower I think I ever saw./^{465 ft} none of the other churches have anything particularly remarkable about them with the exception of one the church of the [80] Capuchins containing the tombs of the Royal family and among them the heart of the Duke of Reichstadt being a simple coffin only, with the inscription in Latin of "the son of Napoleon Emperor of Gallia." His grandfather's tomb is immediately next with. One other church contains a very fine monument by Canova to the memory of an Austrian Archduchess. Tis somewhat singular that Canova's own monument at Venice is very similar to this one here, being a pyramid of marble representing a two and a procession of figures going up the steps toward the open door of the sarcophagus – allegorical of course_____

Vienna

Left early on Friday morning for Vienna which city we reached on Saturday Evening 31^st Oct. after a ride of some 36 hours to a country which from its appearance seemed to say that it's inhabitants were well-to-do in the world. Made enquiries respecting the Danube and found it to be impracticable to go by that route to Constantinople, so concluded to remain in Vienna as long as possible so to do, before sailing from Trieste for Greece.

Vienna is said to be one of the gayest cities in Europe and by many preferred to Paris, myself however not among the number. There is very little architectural beauty of the city, and few statues and fountains of merit in the streets – though its galleries &c. are very rich. [79]

Dresden to Prague

Wallenstein Palace

Received letters from home & sent answers to them at Dresden Oct. 26. Left there on the 27. at 11 am for Prague, in company with a carriage full of the most inveterate smokers. Luckily I was able to stand my hand with the best of them or it would have proved rather inconvenient company. Reached Prague early on Thursday morning after a ride of some 18 hours, through some of the finest scenery I have ever seen. This portion of the Saxon Switzerland – our first view of the fine old city of Prague was not as favorable an one as we could've wished on account of the dense fog which hung over the city, but as we descended the mountain, the mist cleared away and we saw it in all its glory. It is most admirably situated part of it being built directly on the sides of mountains and the buildings rising up one above another like the seats of an amphitheater. [78] spent the day in walking around the city and environs and ascending to the site of the Palace of Wallenstein. On the whole, it is one of the finest cities in Germany particularly as regards situation & surrounding scenery.

Dresden - Opera and Catholic Church

Dresden Hoftheatre, 1841

The opera is considered one of the first in Germany and I never at home or in England saw finer actors in the comedy than those I saw here the other evening. – – Visited Sunday the Catholic Church to hear the music, but the Orchestre of the opera, was not so much pleased as I anticipated, though 'twas very fine, and is considered the finest church music in Germany. Saw there the King & Royal family.

Am now only waiting for letters from home previous to going to Prague & Vienna. Expect them certainly tomorrow, they should have arrived before 25^th Oct. [77]

Meeting Tieck

Ludwig Tieck

The young ladies before referred to, had been at a lecture given by the Poet Tieck, one of the translators of Shakespeare into German. He was very intimate with them, and on that evening introduced into his lecture, one or two pieces from Göethe, applicable to the occasion of Miss K's being there for the last time before her marriage.

More stuff in the Treasury

More treasures from the Green Vault

The coronation robes and jewels of the Electors of Saxony as Kings of Poland and many other curious things together with immense quantities of gold plate and many splendid pieces of carving in old times in [75] various materials, with some most beautiful bronzes. In find the most curious rich collection perhaps in the World. Our next visit was to the armory. This also very complete & superior to most others. I saw there the boots & saddles which Napoleon wore in the battle of Dresden – and the white satin shoes embroidered with gold worn at his Coronation. Many suits of armor by diff [erent] heroes of diff^t  battles and a very fine collection of arms and suits of armor together with a Turkish tent and all the concomitants: bows, arrows, sabers &c. &c. – –In the armory we were also shown the sword of Martin Luther and a very handsome drinking cup presented to him by the Elector of his day.----------


We also took a stroll into the Museum of Antiquities which however was miserably deficient in interest to any one, who like ourselves, had seen so many superior. [76]

Dinglinger's Masterpiece

Johann Melchior Dinglinger (1664-1731),
The Birthday of the Grand Mogul Aurangzeb

The curious part of the collection consisted of many pieces of work by a German artist one Dinglinger, which in execution surpassed any thing I ever dreamed of. For instance one piece was a view of the throne and attendance of the Great Mogul. There are more than 100 figures in the scene all of gold enameled, and each having a distinct expression, Slaves Ambassadors with presents and all things attendant on such an occasion admirably portrayed. Caricatures of people living at the time things were made our admirably executed in precious stones, brilliant pearls &c.

The "Green Vaults"

My next visit was to the Treasury, or as they are here called “the Green Vaults,” containing immense riches, and so arranged that the succeeding room should be richer than the preceding.  The diamonds in one or two of the rooms surpassed in size any thing I ever saw.  There were several setts of Buttons, collars bracelets, &c. Enormous. A collar of brilliant stile worn on State occasions by the Queen I may safely say was composed of stones each large as a small hickory nut. 

 

The Dresden Green Diamond in the hat clasp ornament

Art in Dresden

Our ride from Leipzig on the Rail Road was of about four hours, to Dresden, the capital of Saxony and considered beautiful, principally [72] from its environs.  It is very pleasantly situated on the Elbe, which [is] nice somewhat farther to the South—but initially, it has little or no beauty at all, the Palace perhaps the largest in Extent in Europe, and its other publick buildings, being not handsome, not to say remarkably plain.  It is however much visited by Strangers, on a/c of its galleries &c. and per the fact of the German spoken here more purely than in any other city.  Miserable weather still, which has followed us all the way from Russia. 

I think I recognize these guys...

Saint Mary Magdalen
by Pompeo Batoni
(destroyed during WWII)

Found Williams and  [Astor?] here both studying German.  Visited firstly the Gallery of Pictures considered on the whole the finest out of Italy, and really in viewing it I could almost imagine myself again in Rome or Florence.  The pictures here the most celebrated, and really magnificent, are Raphael’s “Madonna del Sisto” and Correggio’s Recumbent Magdalene.  (I never attempt describing a picture [73] from inability but there are some that I can never forget).  There was another Magdalene hanging near to Correggio’s which I must say pleased me nearly if not quite as much as his—by Pompejo Geronimeo [Girolamo] Battone [Batoni].). There were several fine Titian’s, & Spagnolettos, and the Dutch and Flemish school very well represented.  In one of the first rooms was a small painting of Hagar going into the desert, most beautiful—by whom I know not, as soft as a miniature and one other that particularly pleased me, of Eve presenting the apple to Adam.

A visit out of the general routine

Near the close of the evening the other sisters returned with the intended groom, Count Somebody, from whom [71]I obtained much information regarding our trip to Turkey and Greece he having traveled much in both countries.  Finding we could now leave consistently we made our bows, and left them to one of their last family meetings.  I notice this visit as being peculiar to the upper classes here, who are universally most hospitable to strangers, and as showing the perfect education of the ladies.  In fact almost every where out of Italy, French is universally spoken as every one is considered, strangers and others, as necessarily acquainted with that—and moreover ‘tis about the only occurrence that has happened to us of interest for a long time out of the general routine of traveling & sightseeing-------

An inapropos visit

New Market Square in Dresdenfrom the Jüdenhof - Bernardo Bellotto

After ascertaining that we were Americans, ands intended remaining some days in Dresden, they gave us their address, with a reiterated request to call upon them before we left.  So last evening we called to pay our respects, and I must say that I never spent an evening in any family that seemed more happy among themselves.  Before going there we ascertained that they were the wife and daughter of the first lawyer in Dresden.  On our entry we found the Father & Mother both occupied in a room through which we passed, with a Lawyer and the old lady after introducing us to [70] two or three of her daughters excused her own and her husband’s absence by saying that they were engaged with their lawyer in drawing up a contract of marriage for one of the daughters who was to be wedded in two days.  I began to fear our visit might prove a little inapropos, but we were compelled to wait for the appearance of our former acquaintance the daughter, and her sister l’affiancée—who were out, but were shortly to return.  They all spoke English, but as it seems always to be my lot, I seated myself next to one who prayed me to excuse her speaking that language and compelled me for the rest of the evening to converse in French.  I must say this much for them that I never saw five sisters before so thoroughly well educated as they.  

"Addressing an American in his own language"

They were evidently Ladies, and conversed very well.  After some [68] conversation the old lady having heard me speak English, addressed my companion in the same language.  I was in hopes that my correspondante would do the same, but she for a long time preferred the French, and I of course could not turn the language.  However after some time the mother speaking in English gave her an opportunity of addressing the daughter in the same, when to my surprise she spoke it much better than her mother, and I learned from her that all the young ladies here are taught English French and Italian as a part of their Education.  She preferred speaking in French however, as she told me she did not feel exactly at here ease, when conversing with an Englishman or American, but that she could not hesitate generally addressing an American in his own language, as she found them most lenient as regards mistakes being [69] made.  I really consider it as a great compliment paid to my countrymen.  For if there is any thing which is more ungentlemanly than another, it is for a stranger to laugh at another’s mistakes in addressing him in a tongue not his own.  

An interesting train ride

Left at seven o’clock the next morning for Dresden, in a RailRoad Car, which was quite a relief after having so long travelled in Diligences & Schnell Posts.  In entering our car we found that the seats were not numbered as usually and that from this cause we had our backs to the engine, in lieu of our faces or rather one of us, as there were only two other persons in the car.  The fact caused some talk between us and the man at the depot, which caused in the end a very agreeable acquaintance to be formed between [67] the other occupants of the Car and ourselves.  ‘Twas so different from any thing of the kind that could ever occur in England or with us, that I must make a note of it.  The only other occupants of the first class carriages besides ourselves were two ladies, a mother and daughter.  On our entering the young lady who was on a back seat opposite her mother and I immediately with American, not English politeness in such a case, addressed her in French requesting her to keep her seat as it made not the least difference to her.  She however insisted on the fact that she preferred to ride backwards, and thus we both left the seat unoccupied, her mother and my companion (who is made sick by riding otherwise) only remaining upon the seat.