Searching and censorship in St. Petersburg

Immediately on getting our [9] breakfast, we sallied out in order to pass our luggage at the Custom House.  I have done the same thing many a time before and this time felt quite independent, as I thought I had nothing at all that could possibly be called upon for duties. but alas!  such  searchers I never saw. every stitch was unfolded, shaken and sometimes even ripped open, and every book that was found was laid on side immediately , not even opened for the Censor general to pass judgment upon it. So though I thought myself safe all my books were taken together with a pair of pistols.  and I must wait for four days before any of them can be delivered up to me.  Should the books contain anything in them disparaging to the Government generally, or too strongly in favor of Democracy, they are to be retained by the Censor, until you leave the country, or if you should insist on [10] keeping them yourself, the parts offending are torn out (par example in Byron’s Don Juan) and the remainder should there be any is returned to you.  So with this trouble I escaped the severest Custom House Scrutiny as well as that of the police that I ever underwent.  Before you are allowed to leave the country you must have himself advertised in three different papers for nine days as a guard against contracting debts without paying them.  A Good Rule but rather inconvenient at times.  

Arrival in Kronstadt and St. Petersburg

 A birds eye view of Kronstadt from 1855.

We then once again embarked and finished the remainder of our passage to St Petersburgh very pleasantly or rather as I should say to Chronstadt. When in London, on going to have our passports viseed by the Russian Consul we were obliged to obtain a written guarantee from some one known to him to the following effect. “that the person (myself) [6] was known to them as respectable, born in New York, aged so many years, such & such a profession, the reason for going to Russia and the name of some respectable person in St Petersburgh to whom I was addressed.”  I thought this class enough.  however by the politeness of my Bankers, I obtained the required guarantee of good behavior to[o] , and started. On our approaching Chronstadt, a number of officers form the guard-ship there boarded us and proceeded to see if there was anything contraband on board, and soon after this leaving us. We were visited by some twenty members of the Secret Police of his Majesty the Emperor of all the Russias etc. etc. etc.  The leader of them, was at the head of the Secret Police of the Empire, having a most unremarkable face and such an one as would imply (as our Captain observed) that he would smile at the same time [7] that he would cut your throat.  They all descended into the cabin, and arrayed their papers when we were all called up in turn, and obliged to answer questions to the same effect as those proposed in London, and moreover write it all down ourselves and place our signature to it.  This was frustrating enough but they had not finished with us yet.  We now went on board a smaller steamer in order to approach the city, the channel not allowing vessels but of small size to go up to the City.