The Hermitage

Snuff box carved by Peter I - Hermitage

We revisited today the Hermitage, which was in a great degree destroyed by fire some few years since, and is not got entirely rebuilt, still containing a very fine collection of paintings, and a most splendid suite of apartments, private and for public view.  In one of the many chambers, are several pieces of the work of Peter the Great, some carving in Ivory very [13] well executed, by this Imperial Jack of all Trades. The Palace of the Emperor, stands directly next to and in fact is connected with the Hermitage, and outwardly is the finest of any of the Palaces I have seen in Europe.  The size is immense, built of the various orders of Architecture, and all of (in appearance at least) the red sandstone that we use for the coping and/or Windows at home in brick houses. I say in appearance, for I have found out that the finest buildings in the city are almost entirely built of stucco, which however detracts nothing from its beauty, for they are all admirably styled and handsomely ornamented with bas-reliefs &c. &c. 

St. Petersburg without a guidebook

After finishing this disagreeable visit to the Custom House, we dressed ourselves and felt quite like other beings having in feeling made quite a voyage. [unint.] We took now our first walk in this really most magnificent city.  Every thing is laid out on the most grand scale.  The streets broad, airy, clean, and frequently paved with wood, and of very great length, and one can scarcely turn around without viewing on every side some of the finest buildings of any [11] continental city.  St. Petersburg is situated on the Neva, which runs directly through the city, the largest and prettiest looking stream that I can recollect of having seen passing through any city.  The sides are built upon its whole length.  Long beautiful quays built of huge blocks of dark granite giving the whole a noble appearance.  I have as yet taken but short walks through its principal streets, and though having seen the Palaces admired the Hermitage etc. can hardly say which is which as the Police (bless them) have got my guide books. This is one of the fête days in the Greek Church (the Church of Russia) and every thing is like on a Sunday.  T’is the day of St. John the Baptist, and what is very singular the people of the Church on this day do not eat any thing round such as apples, potatoes &c.  What the reason is, I cannot judge; unless it should be that the Baptist’s head on the charger [12] was round—Tis a strange thing, but nevertheless true, that I left London on the first day of September 1840, and yet, though I was nearly nine days on the passage I reached St. Petersburgh on the twenty-eighth day of August 1840.