Sunday, September 18, 2011

The churches of the Kremlin

Bands [37] of Music men stationed in the grounds, and the fine looking mounted troops of the Emperor were stationed there to preserve order.  In the buildings of the Park some were amusing themselves with dancing thus in promenading and others still in looking at the illuminations and fire-works.  We returned home soon afterward and the next morning taking a guide, started out in a carriage to the Kremlin & its curiosities.  I never could learn with certainty the meaning of the word Kremlin.  It is I believe a [Slav?] word, and by some is said to be a Palace, and by others “The Holy Place.”  Whatever is the real meaning of the name however it in reality in itself comprises a great deal, being within the walls encircling it, a congregation of Palaces, Towers, Mosques, Churches, [illeg.].   From the Environs of the City this singular assemblage of singular & beautiful objects rises conspicuous, and is the first place visited as a matter of course [38] by the stranger.  On our entrance within one of its many gateways, guarded by sentinels, we visited one of the Churches.  Strikingly singular in appearance, and yet at the first glance so strangely reminding one of San Marco of Venice inasmuch as this has its whole sides & walls covered with pictures of the many saints of the Greek Church, covered in the usual manner with dresses of gold & silver ornaments, leaving only the few hands & feet visible.  As we entered, the priests were in the midst of Mass.  The church was crowded with rich & poor, some looking carelessly about, others kneeling and touching the marble pavement with their foreheads.  The priests of the Greek Church are in their general appearance a more cleanly racae at least than those of the Catholic (Roman) well dressed, and universally with long beards, moustache & carrying in their hands a long goldheaded baton, and dressed in [39]some dark colored frock bound tight around the waist.  The Church as we entered was filled with incense, and the choir (without instruments) singing in as fine a manner as I have Novodevichiiever heard out of St. Peter’s.  We remained till the music was over and passed out to visit one or more of the churches within the walls.  The next we entered was in a great degree similar to the one first visited, though not as rich, but the more interesting, as containing the tombs of the Tartar Tsars.  They were all arranged on either side of the Entrance in rows, being nothing more than small sarcophagi or stone-coffins, with a Persian pall thrown over each one.

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