Continued coronation rejoicings; war and rumors of war

Theodore S. Fay (1807-1898), Secretary
of the Berlin Legation

This is now the fourth day of the rejoicings, and last evening the illuminations in many parts of the city really surpassed the former.  Returning from a call on Mr. Fay the Sec^y of legation here, passed the open houses where there was a grand dinner served for some 1600 persons the King, Princes and [58] Nobility also being present. In passing through the [area] I counted more than 50 Royal Carriages drawn up before the door, taking precedence [over] all of the others. Four most splendid equipages belonging to the Royal Family, with their outriders and postillions were also before the door, which was so surrounded with people that it was almost impossible to pass.  Concluded to leave to-morrow for Potsdam & Leipzig en route to Dresden.

Since our arrival here we have seen the French journals, and one English one, being the first one that we have seen since leaving London, and the news in them of war and rumor of war seem to threaten to put an end to our trip, certainly to Egypt if not to Turkey.  The whole of Europe appear to be getting deeper & deeper into trouble.  Have just noticed that the old King of Holland has abdicated in favor of the Prince of Orange which may cause a revolution in Belgium. [59]  In France, the people continually singing, and causing to be sung in the theaters and other places the Marseillaise Hymn &c and calling loudly for war._____________

The celebration continues; visiting the Queen

The Court and visitors rode through the city during the evening in some hundreds of carriages making the scene appear still gayer.  The horses of the Queen of Holland, Emp of Russia and many smaller sovereigns who have residence in Berlin was most brilliant.  In fact nothing could surpass the brilliancy of the scene.  The evening although rather unpleasant proved more favorable than was anticipated during the day.  After satisfying ourselves with the scene, returned to our rooms which we found lighted also as were all the others in the whole of the city.

Eilzabeth Ludovika of Bavaria
by Joseph Stieler

To-day also the streets were lined with carriages, the same persons calling to pay their [57] respects to the Queen.  It would seem as though the line of carriages must cease soon, but they still came on.  The gentlemen all in uniform or court-dress, and the ladies most gaily dressed as a matter of course.  From our window we saw every one getting out of, or into their carriages.  To-morrow a great Ball is to be given, and the festivities continued for a fortnight--by balls, dinner-parties, &c.  So completed our day with visiting the Museum containing some fine pictures and bronzes.

The coronation of Frederick William IV

It turned out that the morrow was the Kings birth-day, and also the day when he was to receive the homage of his subjects as King of Prussia.  Every public Building that we could see in going into the streets was completely covered with lamps.  In the square in front of the Palace, pursers were arranging places for the different deputations to stand the next day.  A temporary throne with hangings of gold and scarlet was being built in port and attached to the Palace, and preparations on a grand scale were going forward all over the city.  The various public monuments were hung with flags & flowers—the bridges had statues placed upon them made particularly for the occasion (of plaster of course), and the tops of the houses in the vicinity of the Palace were covered with seats [54] which were sold to Spectators for a Louis d’or each.  Occupied ourselves with walking around the city during the day—and were woken the next morning early by the din under our windows of bands playing, carriages passing &c &c.Rose immediately, and found the people already collecting, in fact the large square in front of the Palace already nearly filled with the various processions.  The King gave also an audience to the nobility, Diplomatic corps &c. and the line of carriages entering into the palace, directly opposite to our lodgings was unceasing.  Of course the equipages were as brilliant as could be made, and every one seemed to try to surpass some other one in his establishment.  It seemed as if there must have been at least 50 royal carriages that were sent by the King, to wait upon the many distinguished strangers, Ambassadors &c that had arrived in Berlin.

The many members of the diff[erent] branches of the Royal Family attended with their carriages & six, The Royal carriage having Eight [55] with 4 outriders.  The scene was truly magnificent and though, now and t hen a slight shower fell, still every thing seemed gay at least in the first part of the day.  For later it rained quite hard, and having no shelter many must have suffered much.  The ascendance of the King to the throne was announced by Cannon and the various deputations went forward and swore fidelity.  As it rained at the time very hard I contented myself with getting one glance of His Majesty and returning to the house.  Throughout the whole day the city was crowded with people (30,000 strangers said to be in Berlin) and in the evening, it was almost impossible to get along—a carriage could not be obtained for money, and walking was almost dangerous.  We had no other resource however, and footed it. Every house and building in the city was illuminated.  It was almost like fairy land, one blaze of [56] light.  The Arsenal in particular (considered as the finest specimen of modern architecture in Europe) surpassed any thing  I ever witnessed. It was completely one blaze of light.  Its size is immense, and there was seemingly a space left removed, where a light could be placed to advantage.

Zeughaus (Arsenal), Berlin

On to Berlin for the coronation of the King

Friederich Wilhelm IV

Started 9 o’clock at night (Oct 12) in the Schnell-Post.  Very comfortable with the exception of being obliged to change vehicles at every Post, as we were in one of the carriages.  Learned on the way that the King of Prussia was to be crowned in a few days at Berlin!  Scarcely knew what to make of it, as we had heard nothing of it before.  Reached Berlin, in 34 hours about 7 am, where we found some 9 or 10 Diligences arriving at the same time with ourselves. Saw as we passed into the city grand preparations for some great Fete.  We now saw that there was really something going to happen.  Hotels all full, every room engaged a month beforehand, and very few private lodgings to be obtained.. after finding several rooms however, some at nine thalers a day Lo! finally engaged some at random at five thalers per day! and really [53] we were very fortunate indeed, as many could scarcely get any at all, and ours proved to be very comfortable, and to be directly opposite the Palace.

Arrival in Hamburg

Hamburg Opera House

Reached Hamburg late in the evening. . When we landed were able to make ourselves very comfortable.   Occupied myself in writing home, and taking a tour around the outskirts of the town, which is much the best part of it, and standing in the window looking at the any very singular costumes of the peasant women in the streets.  No female servant thinks of carrying any thing under her arm which may be seen, but they universally cover it over with a shawl or dark colored cloth.  Often very handsome.  Visited the Opera where we heard some very good music.

We have left [52] our two American friends, who had travelled with us all the way from London, they going to Paris and we to Berlin.  

Farewell to Russia, hello to German dinners

When fairly under weigh for Hamburgh I began to feel almost like going home, in fact quite happy to get away from Russia, though by no means sorry that I had visited it.

Found our boat very slow—but comfortable, and found on board of it real German style in serving dinners. Viz first—beef, then fish, and other dishes, then pudding, after this another joint of meat, a dessert of fresh fruit, and salad or pickles always eaten at the same time with sweetmeats!

Travemünde 

After a voyage of 4 days found ourselves safe at Travemunde a small post near Lubeck which city was reached in some 2 hours happy to find ourselves once more where things looked clean, (particularly so always in Germany) and where we could make ourselves easily understood by French or English.  Slept at Lubeck and the next day started for Hamburgh 45 miles in 10 ½ hours! [51] the road in places being as bad as with us in Swamp countries. The reason of its being so bad, being that the King of Denmark who owns part of the road, and leaves it in as bad a state as possible, in order to induce the Lithuanians to leave a small port in his dominions (Kiel) in place of Travemunde, for St. Petersburgh.

Sheldon's mother, Maria Clarissa

Maria Clarissa (Lewis) Leavitt by
Samuel Lovett Waldo
Brooklyn Museum of Art

These portraits were painted in the 1820s, by the same artist as Sheldon's portrait to the left.